Pre-pandemic, knowing the difference between retinolretinal and tretinoin would have been reserved for dermatologists and cosmetic scientists. Fast forward four years and understand the soothing nature of… niacinamide and replenishing hydration hyaluronic acid is somewhat passé. Now brands are slapping ingredients on names and labels to get our newly trained attention. Just look at the popularity of The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner (as good for the face as for the armpits, dry scalp and dehydrated feet) or Paula’s Choice 2% BHA liquid exfoliant. But what’s next? Well, the next round with vibrant ingredients of course.
Hypochlorous acid: the bacteria buster
There’s viral and then there’s hypochlorous acid. A skincare ingredient loved for the way it soothes irritation, eczema and skin irritation dermatitisfights blemishes and minimizes the negative effects of bad bacteria, hypochlorous acid is as revealing as it is hardworking. Originally used for wound care, hypochlorous acid has only recently crossed over into the realm of daily skin care.
“Hypochlorous acid is a naturally occurring compound often used in skin care for its antimicrobial (something that stops the proliferation of bacteria and fungi) and anti-inflammatory properties,” says board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology and Skin care brand Dr. Idrissexplains doctor Shereene Idriss Cosmopolitan Britain. “It is a weak acid that our bodies produce as part of the immune response to fight infections. As a skin care ingredient, it is especially beneficial for sensitive and irritated skin as it can reduce redness, soothe inflammation and fight bacteria.
A savior for sensitiveReactive skin, hypochlorous acid soothes and stimulates healing at the same time – which, if you’ve ever experienced angry, irritable skin, feels like a godsend. It is also very beneficial for acne-prone skin, especially because of the way it stops the growth of bad bacteria on the skin’s surface. Hypochlorous acid is usually available in sprays (making post-workout spitting and showering a breeze), and can be used several times a day. One tip is to look in the baby and baby section of your local Boots or pharmacy – hypochlorous acid is often included in gentle cleansing products.
CLINISOOTHE Clinisoothe Skin Purifier 100 mlCredit: Sephora
Tower 28 Beauty SOS (Save Our Skin) Facial Spray, £28Credit: Spin
Vital Baby HYGIENE AQUAINT® disinfectant water 50 mlCredit: boots
Polyglutamic acid: the hydration hero
One you’ve probably been using without realizing it: polyglutamic acid is a hydrating ingredient that helps keep skin plump and hydrated. A ‘humectant’ – that is an ingredient that attracts water, such as hyaluronic acid, urea and glycerin – polyglutamic acid can hold up to 5,000 times its weight in water. By comparison, hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times its weight. This is what makes them so beneficial for absorbing and retaining water in the skin. And that’s not all. “Polyglutamic acid also helps improve skin elasticity, reduce fine lines and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion,” Dr. Idriss explains.
When to use polyglutamic acid in your routine depends on the form it comes in. For an essence that contains it, dab it with your hands or a cotton pad after cleansing. This applies to serums after using one tonermist or essence. The most important thing to remember is that polyglutamic acid attracts moisture, so applying moisturizing products after use will help draw and retain that moisture into your skin.
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Serum 30ml
Then I met you, the giving essenceCredit: Space NK
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Serum Crystal ElixirCredit: Charlotte Tilbury
Omorovicza midnight renewal
Bisabolol: The skin softener
For an ingredient that has long been used in skin care, hair care and makeup, bisabolol hasn’t had a moment in the sun yet. That is so far. Bisabolol, a colorless oil derived from chamomile essential oil, is used for several reasons: “It is best known for its skin-soothing properties,” says Dr. Ross Perry, medical director of Comedians skin clinics. “It has an anti-inflammatory effect and helps improve skin pigmentation, treat dry skin and prevent premature aging. It helps restore balance to the skin’s natural protective barrier and reduces damage to the outer layer.” The best part? It works for all skin types – especially dry, sensitive, angry or irritated skin. And when used in hair care, it can combat the itching associated with dryness and dandruff.
Lactobacillus: the microbiome restorer
If Lactobacillus sounds like a supplement you could take in the morning to help your gut, you’re not far wrong. Lactobacillus, a type of probiotic bacteria, is a “good” strain of bacteria that helps maintain the balance of your skin’s microbiome, as well as the integrity of the skin barrier. (It can also be taken orally to help with your gut microbiome, but we don’t recommend swallowing your skin care. Instead, find a high quality supplement like The Nue Co. Pre + Probiotic or Thorne Women’s Daily Probiotic. But for now, back to skin care.) “Lactobacillus is an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, moisturizing skin care ingredient that can help soothe irritation, reduce redness, and protect against harmful bacteria,” says Dr. Idriss. “It is most commonly used in products that target sensitive skin, eczema or acne as it helps restore the skin’s balance.”
One to reserve for the winter months: Lactobacillus can help the skin recover as it deals with changing temperatures (cold weather outside and central heating and fires inside), a lack of moisture in the air and less sleep and more sugar than normal ( hello, December). It’s also good to keep on hand for flare-ups and reactions.
Allies of Skin Molecular Savior Probiotics Treatment Mist 50mlCredit: Cult Beauty
Gallinée Probiotic Eye Contour Cream 15mlCredit: Cult Beauty
Dr. Dennis Gross Vitamin C + Lactic Dewy Deep CreamCredit: Space NK
Propolis: The healing honey
Look up any recipe for homemade skin care and it probably contains honey. Honey is a natural humectant (attracts water to itself) and can act as a hydrating ingredient, as well as a sealant (bees use it to seal and protect their hives). It helps retain hydration in the skin and minimize transepidermal water loss (water loss through the skin). skin in the atmosphere). “Propolis is a resinous ingredient made by bees. It is incredibly rich in vitamins and minerals that directly benefit the skin,” describes Dr. Perry. It is a powerful healing ingredient, most loved for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial elements. Think of it as a restorative agent for when your skin needs extra protection from the outside world.
Farmacy Beauty Honey Savior Skin Repair OintmentCredit: Space NK
iS Clinical Warming Honey CleanserCredit: Space NK
COSRX Lip Care Balm for dry, cracked lips
Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis + Ferulic Acid Perfecting Face CreamCredit: Space NK Immerse yourself in skin care