By Christopher Kimbal
For the associated press
A good challah bread is tender, soft and slightly sweet, but homemade breads tend to dry and go stale quickly. To keep our challah tender and extend its shelf life, we borrow the water roux technique known as tangzhong, which is used to make fluffy Japanese milk bread.
In this recipe from the “Milk Street Bakes” cookbook, the tangzhong increases the hydration level in the dough while keeping the mixture workable. Tangzhong is a mixture of flour and liquid, cooked into a gel; it is often called a roux, although it contains no butter or oil and serves a different purpose than a classic roux. The gelatinized starch in tangzhong can hold more water than uncooked flour, making the dough easy to handle despite its high hydration level. The bread has a high rise and a light, airy crumb and the baked bread has a good shelf life.
Oil is the fat of choice in traditional challah. For a more complex, nuanced flavor, extra virgin olive oil is used instead of a flavorless neutral oil. To complement the fruity, peppery notes of the olive oil, golden raisins soaked in orange juice are mixed into the dough at the end of kneading.
Although we love the look of challah formed into an intricate six-strand braid or an impressively mounded crown, for convenience we make two simple braids and bake them in loaf pans. Properly packaged, the loaves can be kept for two to three days at room temperature.
Don’t forget to drain the raisins before adding them to the dough. Also, do not cut into the challah while it is still warm. With such a light, soft crumb, the bread cuts easier and has a better texture after cooling to room temperature.
(Melkstraat via AP)
Olive Oil Challah With Golden Raisins
Makes two 1 1/4 pound loaves
INGREDIENTS
43 grams (1/3 cup), plus 607 grams (4 2/3 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
155 grams of golden raisins
1/4 cup orange juice
3 large eggs, at room temperature, plus 1 large egg, for brushing
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pans
63 grams (3 tablespoons) honey
2 teaspoons table salt
2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
(Melkstraat via AP)
DIRECTIONS
1: In a small saucepan, whisk 1 cup of water and the 43 grams of flour until smooth. Cook over medium, whisking constantly, until it thickens (a silicone spatula drawn through the mixture leaves a trail) and slowly bubbles, 2 to 4 minutes; this is a ‘water roux’. Scrape mixture into a stand mixer bowl, press a sheet of plastic wrap directly against the surface, and let cool until barely warm, at least 30 minutes.
2: Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the raisins and orange juice; bring to a boil over medium heat, stir, then remove from heat. (Alternatively, combine the raisins and juice in a small microwave-safe bowl; microwave on high until boiling, about 1 minute.) Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.
3: Beat the 3 eggs into the cooled water roux. Beat in the oil and honey. Add the remaining 607 grams of flour, salt and yeast and attach the bowl and dough hook to the mixer. Mix over low heat until a sticky, slightly elastic dough forms, about 5 minutes. Scrape the bowl and push the dough off the hook.
4: Drain the raisins in a fine-mesh sieve and press them with a spoon to remove excess liquid. Add the raisins to the dough and mix over medium heat, scraping the bowl as necessary, until the raisins are evenly distributed and the dough is sticky but not wet, about 5 minutes more.
5: Remove the bowl from the mixer and use the spatula to scrape the bowl and gather the dough in the center. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours. Meanwhile, coat two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans with oil, then line them with an 8-by-14-inch piece of paper towel, allowing excess material to hang over the long sides of the pan.
6: Lightly dust the counter with flour and place the dough on it. Divide the dough in half with a bench scraper or chef’s knife; each piece should weigh approximately 650 grams (23 ounces). Now divide each half into 3 equal pieces, for a total of 6 pieces; cover with a kitchen towel. Roll each section back and forth against the counter to form a 12-inch rope; Keep the previously formed ropes covered while working.
7: Place 3 ropes perpendicular to the edge of the counter, but parallel to each other. Pinch the ends of the ropes tightly. Flour your fingers, then lift the right rope, cross it over the middle rope and place it between the other 2; Adjust the distance between the ropes as you go. Now cross the left rope over the new middle rope and place it between the 2. Repeat the braiding until you reach the ends of the ropes. Pinch the ends together firmly.
8: Tuck the ends under the loaf and transfer the braid to a prepared loaf pan, compacting it to fit if necessary. Cover with a kitchen towel. Shape the second loaf in the same way and cover it. Let rise at room temperature until the loaves have increased in size by half and the dough feels puffy but springs back slowly when gently poked with a finger, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.
9: About 45 minutes after rising, preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the lower center position. Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl. When the loaves have risen 50 percent, brush the top with beaten egg. Place the pans in the oven, spacing them several inches apart, and immediately reduce the temperature to 325 degrees. Bake until the loaves are golden brown and the centers reach about 185 degrees to 190 degrees, 45 to 50 minutes.
10: Transfer the pans to a wire rack and let cool for 30 minutes. Use the parchment bands to remove the loaves from the pan, remove the parchment and place them directly on the rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before slicing.
Originally published: December 25, 2024 at 5:00 AM PST