This is the case for spatchcocking your bird – and how to do it.
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For Tyler Fenton, the ultimate Thanksgiving centerpiece is a speckled turkey. “You get a nice golden brown bird that is still juicy, and the white and dark meat are both thoroughly cooked,” says the chef and owner of BATA restaurant in Tucson, Arizona. “I will never do it any other way.”
He’s not alone. According to Google dataSearches for “spatchcock turkey” have increased every November for the past five years.
If you’re wondering why spatchcocking a turkey is popular, and whether the technique makes sense for you, chefs like Fenton are happy to walk you through it. Here’s everything you need to know.
Related: Sesame-Ginger Spatchcocked Turkey
What is spatchcocking and how do you do it?
Spatchcocking is a butchery technique in which you remove the backbone of a bird, such as a turkey or chicken, and then press the breastplate down until the bird lies flat. You can simply ask your butcher, or you can follow these steps:
1. Place the turkey breast side down on a work surface. Use poultry shears and start at the tail. Cut along each side of the backbone and separate the backbone from the turkey. Remove the spine and reserve for stock.
2. Place the turkey breast side up on the work surface. Using the heels of your hands, press firmly against the breastbone until it cracks and the turkey breast flattens.
Chris Simpson / FOOD STYLING by MARGARET MONROE DICKEY / PROP STYLING by AUDREY DAVIS
While a spatchcocked turkey may not have the visual drama of a whole roasted turkey, it is easier to cut into elegant portions on a platter.
Why spatchcock a turkey?
Spatchcocking a turkey helps it cook more evenly and quickly, says Matthew Cutolo, chef at Gargiulo’s Restaurant in Coney Island, New York. “You can save about 30 to 50 percent of the cooking time compared to roasting a whole turkey,” he says.
The proof is in the poultry: the Salt and Pepper Spatchcock Turkey And Sesame Ginger Spatchcock Turkey are fully cooked after about an hour and 10 minutes in the oven, compared to over two hours for most turkey recipes.
“Some people may find the look of a spatchcocked turkey less classic than presenting a whole, roasted bird. I prefer a delicious turkey.”
Tyler Fenton, chef and owner of BATA restaurant
The method also coordinates the cooking time for the white and dark meat, so you’re not desperately trying to keep the breast from drying out while the legs are still undercooked. “It ensures that the turkey cooks evenly,” says Ken Lin, chef at Hutong in New York City.
Lin has experimented with spatchcocking everything from Thanksgiving turkeys to Beijing ducksand discovers that the technique also helps crisp the skin as the bird roasts. By laying the turkey flat, you expose more of its surface to the hot air circulating in the oven. That ensures that spatchcocked turkeys get crispy skin all over, not just on the top of the upright bird.
Related: Spatchcocking is the key to the juiciest fried chicken – here’s how
Are there any disadvantages to spatchcocking a turkey?
Even the most ardent proponent of spatchcocking will admit that wrestling a 16-pound turkey can be intimidating. It takes courage to push the sternum so that the bird lies flat.
Space is another consideration. “Because the bird is spread out, you’ll need a large enough roasting pan or baking sheet and room in the oven for the flattened shape,” says Cutolo.
That said, a squashed bird takes up less vertical space in the oven cavity than an upright bird, notes Maria Atteaa 2024 F&W Best New Chef and the executive chef of Raf’s and Musket Room in New York City. This can be useful if you need to put other pans in your oven while the turkey cooks.
Related: Spiced turkey with brown sugar and coriander
You can’t stuff a turkey or carve it at the table, but these two practices also have potential drawbacks. The United States Department of Agriculture warns that filling must reach a minimum internal temperature of 165°F to prevent foodborne illness. Many people prefer to prepare their food recipe for filling in a separate baking dish, which not only makes it safer but also allows for crispy bits to form on top.
And while a spatchcocked turkey doesn’t have any visual drama, it’s easy to portion into perfect portions because it lies flat against the cutting board.
“Some people may find the look of a spatchcocked turkey less classic than the presentation of a whole, roasted bird,” says Fenton. “I prefer delicious turkey.”